Shodai Horiren got her first tattoo as a lark on a trip to Australia nearly three decades ago. Now, tattooed head to foot, even on her shaven scalp, she is one of Japan¡¯s most renowned traditional tattoo artists.

¡°Your house gets old, your parents die, you break up with a lover, kids grow and go,¡± said Horiren, 52, at her studio just north of Tokyo.

¡°But a tattoo is with you until you¡¯re cremated and in your grave. That¡¯s the appeal.¡±