No matter how you make your way to Nonna Nietta, there will be a moment when you realize you¡¯re getting very close ¡ª a moment you know you¡¯re absolutely in the right place.

Whether you¡¯ve stepped out of a taxi or schlepped it through a tangle of?residential backstreets from the nearest bus stop, it¡¯s the instant at which your nostrils are tickled with the aroma of woodsmoke ¡ª reassuring, welcoming, appetizing. From this point on, you can let your eyes take over.

Just look for the two-story, freestanding house on the street corner that seems like it doesn¡¯t quite fit in. The one with old-fashioned features, herbs growing profusely, semi-wild, in place of a neatly clipped garden and a gravel parking lot rather than a designer carport. The one that seems like it had been standing there for decades before it got hemmed in by suburbia.