The first thing I notice on walking into P72, aside from the massive art installation twisting rhizome-like on the ceiling, is how busy it is. It¡¯s nearly 2 p.m. on a midweek afternoon, but the dining room is still packed. Despite the restaurant¡¯s proximity to tourist magnet Osaka Castle, the crowd looks local, mostly businesspeople and ladies who lunch. The establishment only opened in May, but its predominantly plant-based cuisine has already found a following.

P72 is the signature restaurant at Patina Osaka, the first Japanese outpost of Thailand¡¯s luxury Capella Hotel Group. Its concept, which is inspired by its namesake that references the 72 microseasons in Japan¡¯s traditional calendar, is an ever-changing menu of French-inflected, hyper-seasonal fare that largely eschews animal products and aims for sustainability.

The chef behind the concept is Patina Osaka¡¯s culinary director Antony Scholtmeyer, 57, who drew on his rural upbringing outside of Melbourne, Australia.