On days when temperatures and humidity soar, appetites and energy wane. That¡¯s when restorative hiya yakko comes to the rescue. In its simplest configuration, it¡¯s a block of chilled, silky tofu drizzled with soy sauce and topped with condiments.

Meaning ¡°cube shaped,¡± the term ¡°yakko¡± is derived from the white, square-shaped crest that adorned the sleeves of servants who attended to high-ranking samurai in the Edo Period (1603-1868). Blocks of tofu cut to resemble the crest became a popular dish among Edo (the former name of Tokyo) townspeople, and hiya (chilled) yakko remains a favorite hot-weather dish today throughout Japan.

My version of the dish, dashi yakko, includes a salsa-like topping made from fresh chopped ³¾²â¨­²µ²¹ (Japanese ginger), cucumber, eggplant and blanched okra that is known as ¡°dashi¡± in Yamagata Prefecture (stock is referred to as dashi-jiru in the region).